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Volume 2 / Issue 4 Table of ContentsON THE MOVE
IFWTWA
Getting "Tattooed" In Edinburgh
Story and photos by Linda-Marie Singer

Move cursor over photo for larger view.



Edinburgh’s castle towers above the town
Designer Vivienne Westwood’s creations are celebrated in Edinburgh
Edinburgh’s Fringe Festival adds a bit of spice to the annual Edinburgh Festival season




The dignity of the Edinburgh military tattoo

With the sound of bagpipes ringing in my ears, the curtain goes up on The 2006 Edinburgh Military Tattoo. Now in its 57th year, the United Kingdomís biggest annual military pageant bursts with fanfare. Youíre expecting the massed pipes and drums, but an added feature spotlights performers from around the globe. This yearís show included an all orphan choir from Uganda, the hijinks of the New Zealand Army Band, Highland Dancers from South Africa, the Army Band of Chile, plus Scottish regiments of The Royal Scots Borderers, The Royal Highland Fusiliers, and the Band of the Scots Guards. With a receptive crowd of 9,000 nightly, many of these performances bring down the house - or rather the castle.

That would be Edinburgh Castle, Scotlandís premier tourist attraction that dominates the Edinburgh skyline. Dating back 3,000 years, it has been a royal residence, state prison, arsenal, home of the Scottish Crown Jewels and state records, plus an army barracks with accommodations for 1,000 soldiers. But during the month of August, the Castle belongs to The Edinburgh Military Tattoo and to the 220,000 total enthusiasts who thrill to 300 pipers and drummers as they emerge through the castle gate every night. The event is so successful that for eight years every seat has been sold out.

ìItís this burst of affirmation that melts your heart,î says Alan Smith, Public Relations & Marketing Manager of the Tattoo. ìYou might say it has developed into this ceremonial spectacular with many moments that tug at the heart.î According to Smith, ìat the end when The Lone Piper plays, thereís not a dry eye in the stands.î But thereís another: the emotional crescendo of the Uganda childrenís choir singing a tune from the Lion King. ìCan You Feel The Love Tonight?î they ask. The answer is Yes.

But whether youíre at the Castle in Old Town or looking up at it from the New Town, Edinburgh remains the most regal of Scottish cities. A ìBonnieî destination, Queen Victoria found Edinburgh ìenchanting,î while American writer Washington Irving said it was the most picturesque place he had ever seen. Home of the Scottish Parliament and Scotlandís financial center, itís The Royal Mile that throbs with a series of cobbled streets and ancient stone buildings reminding you that the capital is both a medieval town at the heart of a modern Scottish city.

Start your walk at the top of this mile-long thoroughfare with Edinburgh Castle where Scottish Kings once ruled, and then take a ìtasteî of Scottish history as you ride in a whiskey barrel at The Scottish Whisky Heritage Centre. Along the way you may also want to have a peek at a live moving tableau of Edinburgh at Camera Obscura & Outlook Tower dating back to the 1800ís. Or you may want to visit St. Giles Cathedral renowned as the church of John Knox during the Reformation, and then take an unhurried stroll to the nearby Parliament House, the former home to the Parliament of Scotland. Youíll be happy that you stopped into Gladstoneís Land, the 17th century home of a prosperous Scottish merchant. Decorated in period style furnishings, the locale renders an impression of what life was like in Edinburghís Old Town more than 300 years ago. But by far the spookiest tour is The Real Mary Kingís Close Shrouded in myths and mysteries with tales of ghosts and murders, be prepared to go underground for 90 minutes and meet some of the ìresidentsî from The Real Mary Kingís Close.

For souvenir shopping of Scottish goods, keep wandering along The Royal Mile. Featuring a medley of items ranging from Kilts from every clan, there are also pottery plates of Scottish Pipers, Toffee and Whisky Cake, and of course Tartan suspenders, Tartan ties, and Tartan golf umbrellas. Anything else? How about a magnet of a bagpiper that plays ìAuld Lang Syne,î a traditional Scottish tune.

As you arrive at the bottom of The Royal Mile, enjoy a stop at one of Edinburghís premier sites ñ The Palace of Holyroodhouse. Closely associated with Mary, Queen of Scots and her turbulent past, todayís it is the Queenís official residence in Scotland. But itís also a remarkable palace filled with an abundance of history: The Royal Apartments, the Great Gallery with 17th century portraits of Scottish Monarchs, along with Mary, Queen of Scots Bed Chamber, the most famous room in Scotland. Save time to climb up Arthurís Seat near the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Reaching 800-feet, youíll catch breathtaking views for miles around the city including the Firth of Forth, an estuary or ìfirthî of Scotlandís River Forth.

Now springing forth several hundred years to New Town, one of the largest Georgian developments in the world, donít let the name mislead you. New Town dates back to the 18th century with many of Edinburghís art museums, galleries and shops including the Royal Scottish Academy and The National Gallery of Scotland.

On Princes Street youíll recognize one of the most unrivaled attractions from 1846: the 200-foot tall Sir Walter Scott Monument. Since then millions of tourists have scaled the monument for commanding views of the cityís center.

Perhaps, though, the most celebrated time to be in Edinburgh is in August when the Capital City turns into one big holiday with ìfringeî benefits. Iím referring to the popular Fringe Festival, the largest festival on the planet featuring 16,000 performers and 1,800 shows that bring in over one million visitors. Other festivities include the Edinburgh International Book Festival the biggest in the world. But film buffs will not want to miss Edinburgh International Film Festival. Imagine the crowds this year when Sean Connery is the honoree.

Another thing you wonít want to miss is having tea at The Balmoral, Edinburghís five star hotel located on Princes Street. Whether itís your first night or last night in town, youíll enjoy The Balmoral Tea. The price of $28.00 includes Finger Sandwiches like Scottish Smoked Salmon and Cucumber with Milled Pepper, French pastries, and home made Scones served with an assortment of teas and coffee. With bagpipers announcing the arrival of brides and grooms, clearly The Balmoral is a place to celebrate a special occasion. ìGeorge Clooney was just here,î our waitress informed us. ìThe other night it was Tom Hanks and Susan Sarandon. You just never know whoís going to walk in. In fact, my mum is always asking me when Iím coming home and I tell herÖnever!î

WHERE TO STAY:

Borough Hotel. 72-80 Causewayside. Edinburgh EH9 1PY Phone: 01144 131 668 2255. E-mail: bookings@boroughhotel.com  (www.boroughhotel.com ) Hereís a lovely, clean, quiet and unassuming venue with only eleven rooms and an engaging staff. Winner of Best Scottish Hotel Bar Food 2006. Managers Kym and Jamie Henderson are the dynamic brother and sister whose team effort and confidence makes you feel like family. ìWeíve all been to those faceless chain hotels,î Jaime says, ìbut we treat our guests the way they treat themselves in their own house.î 24-hour room service. From September ñ December rates start at $170.00 including breakfast.

WHERE TO DINE:

Borough Hotel. 72-80 Causewayside. Borough ñ The Restaurant. Borough ñ The Bar. Bar Phone: 01144131 668 2255. E-mail: bookings@boroughhotel.com

The Balmoral Hotel. 1 Princes Street. Phone:01144 131 556-2424. E-mail: thebalmoralhotel@rfhotels.com. Choose from the hotelís Michelin starred restaurant with outstanding cuisine provided by Chef Jeff Bland.

The Fourth Floor Restaurant at Harvey Nichols. 30-34 St. Andrews Square. Delectable and varied cuisine along with a 360-degree panorama of the capital city.

HOW TO GET AROUND:

All inclusive Edinburgh Pass. Bus takes you to over twenty-five attractions. (www.edinburghpass.com)  $37.00 for a one day pass.

YOUR PERSONAL GUIDE IN SCOTLAND:

Fraser Gordon is one of the most versatile and fun guides in Scotland. E-mail: scotlandia@hotmail.com  Phone: 01144 790982-4323. ©Linda-Marie Singer 2006


©2008 Linda-Marie Singer, All rights reserved




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