Baroque Sicily:
Story and photos by Sharri Whiting
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|  | The Mediterranean is an ever-changing presence in Sicilian life
| |  | The Mediterranean is an ever-changing presence in Sicilian life
| |  | Cathedrals made of luminous limestone, like this one in Scicli, grace the area known as Baroque Sicily
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| |  | Cathedrals made of luminous limestone, like this one in Scicli, grace the area known as Baroque Sicily
| |  | The town of Ibla is quintessential Baroque Sicily | | |
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| | Set in the crystal waters of the Mediterranean, Sicily is a microcosm of Western Civilization -- Greeks, Arabs, Spanish, French, Byzantines and Romans all left their mark. Baroque Sicily, the southeastern corner of the island, has become a chic place to vacation, as sophisticated travelers seek sand, sun and sumptuous service in a largely undisturbed setting. Rebuilt after the terrible earthquake of 1693, the architecture here reflects the baroque style then in fashion, with the local stone adding a golden light to highlight the swirls and carvings in the facades.
Named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2002, the towns of Baroque Sicily -- Ragusa Ibla, Modica, and Scicli -- have much to offer in addition to their grand architecture: carefully preserved Greek and Roman temples and theatres, exceptional wines, fruits and vegetables flavored with the taste of the sun, meats and cheeses from grass fed animals, Aztec-inspired chocolate and the freshest seafood pulled from the glittering waters of the southern Mediterranean.
Ibla, the ancient town adjacent to the city of Ragusa, is graced with a grand, palm-lined Piazza del Duomo, crowned by the cathedral of San Giorgio, built in 1739. Nearby, across a deep gorge, is Ragusa Alta (Upper Ragusa), the new city built after the earthquake. Towering over Ragusa is the church of San Giovanni, a monument to what is called Iblian Baroque architecture. Ragusa Ibla and Ragusa Alta were combined in 1926 to become the capital city of the province, but it is Ibla that is so engaging to visitors.
Close to the cathedral in Ibla is Locanda Don Serafino a romantic boutique hotel housed in a restored 19th century mansion. Giuseppe La Rosa runs the hotel, while his brother, Antonio, runs the top-rated Locanda Don Serfino Ristorante.
Ask for a table in the wine cellar, steps below the dining room, where 700 dusty bottles line the walls. The menu includes fresh local seafood, such as Yellow-fin tuna on Modica Caponata and Mackerel with tender courgette leaves and tomato capuliatu , as well as Sicilian specialties. The pizza is especially tasty, with the Pizza Norma (eggplant, ricotta salata, mozzarella, tomato sauce) the regional specialty. The restaurant has hosted the King and Queen of Belgium, as well as various Prime Ministers of Italy.
Locanda San Serafino has a seaside ristorante in Marina di Ragusa, about ten miles from Ibla, featuring fresh-caught seafood served at tables overlooking the Mediterranean. (Hotel guests may use the Locanda’s private beach, as well as the ristorante).
On a tiny street adjacent to Ibla’s duomo (cathedral) is the Michelin-starred Ristorante Il Duomo. Converted from an old house, the restaurant offers diners a choice of several small rooms, some overlooking the back garden. Give the chef your choice of fish, meat, or both, and allow him to design a dizzying array of cold, hot, raw, cooked and generally creative dishes. The wine list is extensive, with Sicilian specialties such as Donnafugata, as well as excellent bottles from around Italy.
Modica is located between Ragusa and the sea, its grand baroque churches sprawled across the various levels of this ancient city that scales a cliff. There, grand staircases leading ever upward intersperse with an intriguing labyrinth of streets and winding walkways. The grand Duomo of San Giorgio rises dramatically above the city, 254 steps above the main street far below. On the lower piazza stands the massive Church of San Giovanni, overlooking the many shops that sell the luscious peppered chocolate candy and liqueurs inspired by ancient Aztec recipes.
In Modica Alta (upper Modica) the four-star Palazzo Failla Hotel is housed in a beautifully restored 18th century noble mansion; the hotel has hosted numerous Italian movie stars and high-level politicians. The atmosphere at the Failla is quiet elegance; in summer, the lobby is an escape into the calm and cool. Palazzo Failla has a well-known ristorante, La Gazza Ladra, whose talented young chef, Accursio Craparo, honed his skills in the ski resorts of the Dolomites, in Frankfurt, Germany, and at the topristorante in Italy. His best dishes make use of seasonal produce and fresh caught seafood.
Continuing south from Ragusa, Donnafugata Castle, built originally as a mansion in the mid-1600s by the Baron of Serri is open to the public for tours. For anyone who has read the famous novel, The Leopard, by Lampadusa, this impressive castle brings to life the setting of the book. In the 19th century, the Baron De Spuches turned the house into a castle, complete with two circular towers and grand loggias. With a view of the sea from its ramparts, the 122-room fortress is surrounded by vast gardens dotted with ponds and pavilions.
Scicli, the little town between Modica and the Mediterranean Sea, rises on three levels in an unusual partnership with its rocky natural setting. Here, the quiet streets are lined with palazzos, churches and public buildings built between the 15th and 19th centuries, while the city’s history dates back to 1500-800 BC. This unassuming little town is home to the famous Scicli group of contemporary artists, unofficially led by the renowned painter, Piero Guccione. The painters meet every morning for coffee and to walk the beach at nearby Cava d’Aliga, before disappearing into their studios to create some of the best-known art in Italy.
In Scicli, I Sapori del Vicolo is definitely a good find. The ristorante, located in a centuries-old grain warehouse in the historic center, isn’t allowed to put tables out on the cobbled street under after 8 pm, so make the booking for after that and ask for un tavolo fuori. The menu is varied, but seafood is king. Frutti di mare pasta followed by a baked fresh fish (caught that day) is the best thing to order.
To find fish and shellfish fresh from the boats, drive to the coast at Donnalucata, about 10 miles from Scicli, where the fishermen sell their catches from tented stands on the dock. The restaurants along the shore offer the freshest seafood. A walk along the seafront at sunset, when old ladies sit in front of ancient houses and young families stroll with their children, is to experience the real Sicily.
In the midst of Baroque Sicily’s rolling countryside, punctuated by hand hewn stone walls and ancient olive trees, is the five-star Eremo della Giubiliana country house hotel. Located within sight of the sea, on a high plain south of Ragusa, this 15th century hermitage has been painstakingly restored. With its own private landing strip and beach, it is truly the perfect getaway for those wanting a low profile and high- level service. Former Italian President Carlo Ciampi has been a guest here. The Eremo has its own restaurant, serving good local food; guests also enjoy going to the beach at Marina di Ragusa, where seafood restaurants line the shore.
Baroque Sicily is a region of rocky outcrops and mountains, where farms climb the hills, where vines and olive trees cling to stony ground. The resulting wines and oils are outstanding, with Sicilian production respected around the world. Blood oranges, as well as many other fruits, grow well here and fruit-based desserts are popular. From the sea come tuna, calamari, and pesce spada (swordfish) and more, which form a centerpiece to many Sicilian menus. Special pastas, such as hand-kneaded cavuto, and sweets, such as the "priest-stranglers" (fennel flavored biscuits) and marzipan candies are unique to the island.
©Sharri Whiting 2006
©2008 Sharri Whiting, All rights reserved |
