| |
United States
1 to 5 of 56 
|
Artful driftwood adorns a Georgia beach
Another coloful sunset on Georgia's Golden Isles
A fishing trawler docks on one of the islands off the coast of Atlanta
Palm trees at sunset on one of Georgia's Golden Isles
Textures of sand, rocks and water create a serene composition
|
|
Edible Atlanta: Georgia's Brunswick & the Golden Isles:
Story by Gregory D. McCluney
Photos courtesy of ExploreGeorgia.com
Edited by Kim Rahilly
Four islands. Four destinations. Four personalities.
Plus an historic, renewed coastal city to explore
Surf's up at sundown on Georgia's Golden Isles
Ever notice how each island you visit in the Caribbean is unique? They may be just a short boat ride away from one another, but each has its own culture, food, architecture – even language. Well, you don't have to leave the continental U.S. to sample some of the same island diversity. Just drive a few hours south of Atlanta to Georgia's Golden Isles where the options are endless:
- One island sets it sights on history and is the site of the grand dame of Georgia's coastal hotels
- One is gated and so private you probably can't even visit, although George W. did
- Another is a picture-perfect residential-island suburb surrounded by golf courses and beachfront resorts
- And yet another is eco-friendly, accessible only by boat and almost completely deserted, with seven miles of condo-free beaches and just one historic hunting lodge (Though the horses have Monday and Tuesday off)
Before visiting any of them, you'll pass through a historic seaport town with a resurging downtown historic district; and it is home to a world-famous stew!
Perfect for a long weekend, it would take a lot longer to taste all the treats that these diverse island destinations offer. We rolled out of Atlanta mid-morning, aiming to have lunch at Blue Moon Café in downtown Statesboro en route. It's worth the slight detour and breaks up an otherwise monotonous six-hour drive (otherwise, it is fast-food nation along I-16 to Savannah where you'll turn onto the New York-Florida Expressway, the torturous I-95). Fortunately, you'll only spend an hour or so dodging the trucks and Yankee tourists.
Brunswick
For many years, visiting the Golden Isles' beaches didn't include much time in Brunswick: it was mostly a few stoplights off the Interstate, so you could pick up Glynn Avenue to the islands. But in the last few years, things have changed. Brunswick is now a National Trust Main Street City; thanks to the efforts of a local preservation group. It boasts a picturesque waterfront park, shrimp boats, marina and concert site. There are 14 public squares, many surrounded by turn-of-the-century homes and vintage architecture.
We chose to stay at a delightful B & B, the WatersHill at 728 Union Street. You could spend a good part of the day just taking in the eclectic décor and visiting with the hospitable owners on the porch (they have a great happy hour each evening). They can direct you to all the best places with local color, good humor and spicy gossip. From here, we could explore on foot or bike most of the points of interest, such as the 1907 courthouse; Old City Hall built in 1888; a great bakery, The Common Ground (though the Orthodox bakers aren't open on weekends); and most of the new shops and restaurants that make up the town's revival.
"No dogs on the porch; No cameras inside!"
But before you settle into the history of Brunswick, the shrimp capitol of the United States, take a spin just south of the Old Town on U.S. 17 to another historical landmark, the Georgia Pig Barbeque. The GP redefines the term, "rustic." You'll be given lots of orders and a dizzying display of what's-not-allowed; there are signs everywhere you look. Plus it's self-service. This is slow-smoked beef brisket and pork ribs, all cooked over wood, and it's good. Stick with the brisket and ribs; there's no point in filling up on the ordinary sides – but the signs tell you not to bring your camera or take any paper towels out on the porch!
Dinner in Old Brunswick
One of the best restaurants in the Golden Isles is in the historic area, Christie's, recently opened at 1618 Newcastle Street. Owners Jason and Christie Ridinger met while working at a posh area resort; got married and opened their own place -- and it's a winner. Jason is the chef and sources as many ingredients as possible from locals. Our crab for the delicious cakes came from Darien, just up the road. The herbs in my succulent Mississippi frog's legs came from his window garden near the bar, and the Bibb lettuce in our salad was just-picked from his garden behind the restaurant. This is creative fine dining with attentive service by the owners and small staff. What to order? Just about anything – pan-seared flounder, duck breast, lobster mac and cheese, but save room for a display of Sweetwater cheeses from Thomasville, plus a sampler of six homemade ice creams.
A Date with Lady Jane
After a relaxed Southern breakfast at WatersHill, we went to another local fish house, Spanky's. Actually, there are six popular Spanky's up and down the coast; but we found 1200 Glynn Ave. for reasons other than a fish sandwich. Moored behind the restaurant in a beautiful marsh waterway is the Lady Jane, a real working shrimp boat, sadly no longer in regular service. The "shrimp capital of the world" is in deep trouble. Foreign imports and high fuel costs make it difficult to compete, so one captain, Larry Credle, has another idea: tourism. He takes groups (up to 48) out for "shrimpin'." The Lady cruises out, drops her net, and the varied catch is sorted on the deck, with an educational demonstration. Great for kids!
St. Simon's Island
After the Lady, we visited the island's modest farmer's market in Demere Park to pick up some fresh Vidalia onions, and then moved on to St. Simons Island and the renowned Crab Trap restaurant. Highly suggested are the rock shrimp (in season), Crabber's Delight platter, and crab cakes, but save room for the famous hush pups and slaw.
There are lots of activities available on SSI to work off some of that crab cake. SSI and the other isles sport over 200 holes of golf, tennis centers, great (flatlands) biking, loads of shopping and some interesting historical sights, fishing piers including a lighthouse. (see: www.comecoastawhile.com). Allow some time for beachcombing; there are several public access points including Massengale Park, a favorite.
Shopping and dining is concentrated in three areas: the Pier and village, near the lighthouse. Some other good spots are just east of the village on Ocean Boulevard. Maps and guides are posted everywhere; it's a small area, and you'll sort through your options pretty quickly. Although we weren't able to visit, Halyards Restaurant is in this shopping area and highly recommended by many food writers.
Before catching the ferry to Little St. Simons Island (the only way to get there), we worked in a late lunch at Barbara Jean's Restaurant, whose crab cakes are so famous they are shipped daily across the U.S. Another plus at Barbara's is the she crab soup with lumps of crabmeat so big they look like diver scallops. There's plenty of home cookin', with a killer chicken fried steak, buttermilk battered jumbo fried shrimp even turkey and dressing. The sides are almost as exciting including a squash casserole, red beans and rice, broccoli and rice and signature coleslaw. Don't miss Barb's home bread pudding with vanilla sauce.
Sand dunes and vegetation on the beaches of the Golden Isles
Little St. Simons Island
We drove 30 minutes up-island on a scenic drive past the stables to the Hampton River Club Marina where we parked for our stay. There are no cars allowed on LSSI (only service trucks and jeeps) and for good reason. Here you'll walk, bike, take a boat or ride horses everywhere you go. There are no stores, no restaurants (all meals are taken at the rustic lodge when the chef rings the chuck wagon bell) and no shopping. There's absolutely nothing but nature on the entire seven miles of beachfront! Fewer than 30 guests are on the island at any one time, and they have 10,000 acres to play in. Upon arrival, you are greeted by a naturalist from the staff who talks about the history and wild life inhabiting the island. Originally a deer camp, LSSI was the private hunting lodge for a wealthy Eastern family, built in 1917.
Does all this privacy come at a cost to food lovers? Hardly. LSSI has always been known for its meals, all served family style. Social hour begins at six, with cocktails, beer, wine and hors d'oeuvres served in the main lodge. Most of the rooms are in individual cottages a few minutes away by foot.
Chef Brian Hanson joined LSSI last August, 2006 from several resorts around the Jacksonville Beach area. He has revamped the menu to focus on local seafood including Georgia wild shrimp, grouper, Atlantic salmon. He is working with a farmer in Brunswick to procure organically grown vegetables and supplement these with his own island garden. All desserts are made from scratch, including his fresh peach cobbler. Signature entrees include sweet potato encrusted grouper in Vidalia onion compote, Georgia wild shrimp over jalapeno cheese grits and fried chicken with collard greens. If you happen to be there when they do a beachfront low country luncheon, don't miss it!
Jekyll Island
If you're traveling with the family, Jekyll might be the island of choice. There's 10 miles of beach, four golf courses, tours of the "Millionaire's Village" and an interesting island history center. New is the Georgia Sea Turtle Center opening this summer. You can visit Georgia's first brewery, but you won't get a beer; it's just a ruin. The beaches are uncrowded most of the year, but tend to be a bit muddy. This is a family-friendly island, but restaurant options are there, mostly informal. For the big night out, dress up for a grand hotel experience at the Grand Dining Room at the Jekyll Island Club Hotel. This is a trip back in time, and although the food can be irregular, the ambiance is a "10." And those views! For more informal seafood fun, try Latitude 31 at the Wharf.
The Hampton River Club Marina on Little St. Simons Island where no cars are allowed
The Cloister & Sea Island
I'd love to tell you more about the recent additions to this 1926 historic landmark, but I can't because they won't let me in! But then, 99 percent of the public will never get into either. It's a very high-end private residential country club that caters to the likes of George W. Bush and the Economic Summit types. It's now gated, so you can't drop in for a meal or even a glass of wine, as in the past. Of course, they do have one of the best, pristine beaches on the Georgia coast. There are several restaurants from beach casual to fine dining. The wine cellar is probably the most expansive in Georgia – very heavy on expensive first-growth Bordeaux and such.
All said, the Golden Isles are a unique part of Georgia; food, ecology, sports, shopping, sights, history and recreation. Diversity is the key word, and every island has its own personality. Experience them all.
© by Gregory D. McCluney, 2009
|
|
United States
|
|
|
|
|
|
1 to 5 of 56 |
|
|
|
| |
