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The Insider’s Guide to Travel, Food and Wine
The Golden Isles: St. Simons and Jekyll
Where can you find beautiful islands that can be reached in a few hours driving time, without the hassle of flying and waiting in long airport lines? For those looking for delightful weather, island-style relaxation and a lack of high-rise development, St. Simons and Jekyll fits the bill perfectly.
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United States
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The Golden Isles: St. Simons and Jekyll
Story and photos by Frederica Dunn
Where can you find beautiful islands that can be reached in a few hours driving time, without the hassle of flying and waiting in long airport lines? For those looking for delightful weather, island-style relaxation and a lack of high-rise development, St. Simons and Jekyll fits the bill perfectly. This was the perfect solution for a group of friends looking for a getaway weekend.
Georgia's coastline has the longest contiguous salt marsh environment in the world and is home to 13 barrier islands. This is the bread basket of marine life.
Abundant with wildlife and constantly refreshed by a steady, salty sea breeze, it's a place to kick back and relax for a few days. Take a walk on the beach or try the old wooden swing facing the ocean and listen to the waves hit the rocks. The huge old oak trees and Spanish moss carry you back in time.
Looking for a place to stay that was low-rise, historic and on the ocean, we chose the King and Prince Hotel, which is celebrating their 75th anniversary. Originally opened as a dance club in 1935, the hotel has an old-school glamour and is designated one of the Historic Hotels of America. The hotel was the center of activity during the Big Band era. The historic main building is surrounded by beach villas and free-standing guest houses. There is also a beautiful golf course for guests and the public.
Our visit began with a delicious Sunday brunch at the King and Prince hotel on St. Simons, with a panoramic view of the Atlantic ocean from our dining table. The hotel served favorite southern dishes such as shrimp and grits, followed by oatmeal raisin muffins, biscuits hot from the oven, and key lime pie.
With a room facing the ocean, I would be lulled to sleep with the waves hitting the rocks outside my patio door.
While American tycoons such as the Vanderbilts and Rockefellers used these barrier islands as personal playgrounds in the 1800s and early 1900s, we must give credit where it is due. Their self-interest kept these places largely untouched by the kind of development that has plagued many islands.
The islands were inhabited by Native Americans (Creek indians) for years, but all that changed in 1526, when the Spanish arrived. This was the first European settlement in America nearly a century before the first English settlements in Virginia.
A lasting European influence didn't come until 1736, with General James Oglethorpe's construction of Fort Frederica. The Fort and surrounding town (also called Frederica) were a key base of operations for the British in their struggle to evict the Spanish. This culminated in the decisive Battle of Bloody Marsh near the fort; the Spanish threat ended in 1742.
Thus started the profitable rice-based culture of the South Carolina low country and the huge cotton plantations supported by slave labor. It was on St. Simons in 1803 that one of the most poignant chapters of American slavery was written. A group of slaves from the Igbo region of West Africa escaped custody and took over the ship that was transporting them to St. Simons from Savannah. Immediately upon reaching shore, the slaves essentially committed mass suicide by walking into the swampy waters nearby; this would forever be known as Ebo Landing.
During World War II, the Nazis torpedoed and sank two American tankers off St. Simons island in what was called “Operation Drumbeat.” The Nazis used the lights of St. Simons to sink the ships; the next day, and for the remainder of the war, all homes and buildings on the island observed “blackout”.
The King and Prince hotel was taken over by the U.S. Navy in 1942. Reopening in 1947, the resort continues its outstanding reputation to this day.
Most tourist activity is clustered around the south end, where St. Simons Sound meets the Atlantic. This 12-mile-long island is heavily residential and about the size of Manhattan. The main north-south artery is called . . .what else. . Frederica Road, as are churches, stores and historical landmarks. How delightful to have so many things named after me. It was quite an ego trip!
St. Simons Lighthouse and museum give an excellent snapshot of the past. You can enjoy the exhibits and climb 129 steps up to the top of the 104-foot beacon, which is still active today. Climbing up is well worth the effort and affords a panoramic view of the whole island. (There is an elevator, too.)
Not to be missed is breakfast at the Sandcastle Café in the center of town, which is three or four blocks long. Owned by a native couple (Tim & Melissa), it has become a legend for 20-plus years. Everyone in town joins the tourists at this favorite eatery. The home-made waffles and pancakes are a treat.
One morning, we set out to go shrimping with Cap'n Larry Credle on the authentic shrimp boat Lady Jane. This was definitely a first for all! None of us had ever seen a fishing net lowered into the water and dragged up 15 minutes later with all kinds of sea animals from sting rays to turtles, jelly fish, shrimp and many other creatures. The shrimp were kept, but most other fish were returned to the water. Our excellent guide/lecturer was a marine biologist from the University of Georgia. The weather was beautiful and we all ate the steamed shrimp from our haul.
Following the shrimping adventure, we had lunch at Spanky's restaurant, “home of the original chicken finger,” as well as locally caught seafood. The restaurant has a great view of the Golden Marshes of Glynn and is a local favorite. (Sidney Lanier, a well known poet from Macon, GA wrote poems about the famous marshes.)
The Georgia Sea Turtle Center is a must-visit; the primary focus is on treating sea turtles, but the center also helps other wildlife patients. Injured and ill sea turtles receive attention from animal care staff in a state-of-the-art veterinary hospital and rehab facility.
Kayaking on the marsh and sound is very popular, as is biking. St. Simons is flat, so biking is easy and fun. Golf is a major form of entertainment on the islands. We hit a few balls for practice and drove golf carts all over the stunning Hampton Club course.
Who can visit a resort isle and not shop? My favorite place was Redfern Village with all kinds of creative shops such as Rarebbits and Pieces and Village Mews antiques. The Cricket was certainly bathing suit heaven, with more choice and styles than you could count.
Our farewell night on St. Simons was celebrated with a special “Seven Decades of Southern Coastal Cuisine,” featuring various wines and culminating with bananas foster. The King and Prince hotel's Solarium dining room has superb ocean views from every table. Watching the sunset with our meal made it a very special evening.
Now, we leave for a different type of venue on the National Park of Jekyll Island, the smallest of the coastal islands. Today, it's a great place for a relaxing, nature-oriented vacation with of the perks of luxury. St. Simons has the nightlife and Jekyll has a more rustic atmosphere.
Once the playground of the world's richest families, including the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, Pulitzers, Goulds, Morgans and Cranes, the Club's membership represented a sixth of the world's wealth. Jekyll is ten miles long and 2.5 miles wide.
Yankee millionaires bought Jekyll Island for $125,000 and built winter “cottages” with 15-25 rooms and a clubhouse for 100 members. These mansions were built between 1890 and 1925. You can curl up and relax on one of the big porches of the Jekyll Club with a drink and a good book.
The Queen Anne-style clubhouse with its iconic turret, dates from 1886. One of the most recent renovations is the 24-room Crane Cottage, a Mediterranean villa that is also host to a marvelous restaurant. I thoroughly enjoyed eating in the courtyard with a warm ocean breeze blowing through the garden.
As a home away from home for America's richest industrialists, the island was the unlikely seat of some of the most crucial events in modern American history. It was at the Jekyll Island Club that the Federal Reserve banking system was originated, in a secret meeting of investors and tycoons in 1910.
Five years later in 1915, AT&T President Theodore Vail would listen in on the first transcontinental phone call from the club grounds. Also on the line were the phone's inventor, Alexander Graham Bell, his assistant Thomas Watson, the mayors of New York and San Francisco, and President Woodrow Wilson.
The millionaires continued to frolic on the island through the Great Depression, but worsening economic conditions reduced membership. The outbreak of World War II and the resulting drain of labor into the armed forces forced the club to close in 1942.
In 1947, the state of Georgia purchased the island and declared it a National Park for all Georgians to enjoy. This public mission is why prices on Jeykll have stayed so low and development has stayed so well managed.
The historic district consists of a 240-acre riverfront area with perfectly manicured gardens and beautiful 25-room cottages. The Jekyll Island Club is a full-service resort and a sort of living history of the world's richest and most influential people.
You have to stop at the entrance gate and pay a $5 parking fee to gain access to Jekyll, and the fee covers the duration of your visit.
A stroll among shells on the beach, a splash in the pool, a quiet moment on a beach swing, all are moments repeated and enjoyed time and time again at this very special Kingdom by the Sea.
© Story and photos by Frederica Dunn, 2010
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