Desert Hot Springs -- Here, It Is the Water
by Joe Hilbers
"Spoil thyself" was our aim on our recent visit to California's desert wonderland. Like Roman senators on a holiday to the baths, we arrived at Miracle Springs Resort & Spa in Desert Hot Springs, one of the nine cities that line the Coachella Valley. We soon settled into our room with outdoor patio, just five quick steps from one of the eight natural mineral-springs pools (some of which are cozily heated to 104 degrees).
Desert Hot Springs is unique in that it sits directly atop a huge aquifer, an underground layer of water, rock, gravel, sand and silt that, over eons, has filtered down from the winter snows of the San Bernardino Mountains to the north. The city and Miracle Springs Resort & Spa are just above the Mission Creek Strand of the San Andreas Earthquake Fault, and the aquifer seeps water into the fault lines that produce the warm springs. Some of the 44 wells within city limits produce unusually pure cold water as well. Two of the wells are located on Miracle Springs’ property.
Desert Hot Springs allows you to see the valley in a new perspective. It stands alone on the north side, while all other eight cities are clustered on the south side of Highway 111. Since it is on the northern slope, visitors are treated to wonderful views of the entire valley and surrounding mountains. On our winter visit, the majestic splendor of Mount San Jacinto’s snow-covered peak dominated our view of the valley.
Many hot springs around the world produce mineral-rich water (think sulfur, which can offend the nose), but not so here: while the hot-water wells have odorless mineral content, the cold ones do not, making for some of the purest drinking water found anywhere in the world. While the hot water is odorless and tasteless, the minerals act as a laxative, and the warning is: "do not drink." It is said that an early entrepreneur tried to bottle the hot water and found his customers scurrying off most hurriedly.
With our luxurious room, outdoor patio with lounge chairs, and a hot pool at our very doorstep, it was tempting to spend too much time lolling in it with carefree decadence. However, we have always suffered from the same affliction as the "bear who wanted to see the other side of the mountain." While our bodies voted for more pool and massage time, our minds said, "Get off your big, fat rusty-dusty and go exploring!" We chose the latter, which is how we were able to gather the following interesting facts for this story:
We found Miracle Resort & Spa to be an ideal location for roaming and sightseeing throughout the valley. It also offers close proximity to Joshua Tree National Park. We enjoyed the City of Desert Hot Springs -- it is "Main Street USA" and a refreshing change from the glitz and glamour south of Highway 111.
One afternoon, we learned the fascinating history of Cabot Yerxa, the first man; with a hand shovel no less, to discover a hot-water spring on land that was to become the City of Desert Hot Springs. He also discovered a cold-water spring on the 160-acre property that he purchased from the government for $10 in the first decade of the 20th Century.
Born of white parents, but raised on an Indian reservation in North Dakota, he continued to have close ties with Native Americans throughout his life. The unique pueblo he built stands as the monument to this fact. Today, Cabot’s Old Indian Pueblo has become a national treasure: all 35 rooms, 65 doors, 125 windows and 5,000 square feet of it. It was almost destroyed by short-sighted city officials, but one far-sighted man named Cole Eyruad saved it. His efforts resulted in the present-day museum, which has been protected with loving care by volunteers who have united to become the Cabot’s Museum Foundation.
We embarked on a personal tour of the property led by Michael O'Keefe, a fountain of knowledge about the man and the construction of the pueblo, which took decades to build from salvaged wood and other building materials (including handmade adobe bricks), almost entirely by Cabot Yerxa, himself.
What kind of man was Cabot Yerxa? At age 16, he journeyed to the Yukon to seek his fortune in the Dawson Gold Rush. He was a personal friend of President Theodore Roosevelt who appointed him Postmaster General of Altadena, California (a post he held for a time). Among other roles, he was a trader and orange-grove farmer who traveled as far as Panama in Central America, and who finally settled in what is now Desert Hot Springs.
The pueblo, museum and gift shop are located at 67616 Desert View Avenue in Desert Hot Springs and is open for tours by individuals and groups. It is a "must-visit" for school children and others from all parts of the Coachella Valley and beyond. For more information, go to: www.cabotfoundation.org
Old Style Glitter
The annual production of "The Fabulous Palm Springs Follies" has become a tradition in Palm Springs. The city has been a weekend haunt for Hollywood's brightest stars from its earliest days, and has always maintained a rich reservoir of showbiz talent. Seventeen years ago, this showcase for aging talent was put back on the boards. The Follies’ chorus girls have traditionally ranged in age from 55 to 80–plus, and their talent and glamorous looks continue to amaze one and all. Their "Tin Pan Alley" production was a "must see" for this writer, proving itself to be even better than expected. The show revived the music and events of the ‘20s, ‘30s and ‘40s for an audience that could still remember what 78s, 45s, and 33 1/3 meant to music.
Ever since conceiving of The Follies in 1992, Riff Markowitz has been its director and M.C. The performance played to a full house (and grey-haired patrons prevailed). Shown at the Historic Plaza Theater at 128 South Palm Canyon Drive in Downtown Palm Springs, "The Fabulous Palm Springs Follies" presents up to ten shows a week, seven months of the year. For more information, call: 760-327-0225 or go to: www.psfollies.com.
Miracle Springs Resort
We could not have asked for more during our all-too-short stay at Miracle Springs Resort & Spa. General Manager Stuart Malkin and his wife Barbara treated us with the friendliness and courtesy for which the hotel is known. We also had the opportunity to meet its gracious owner, Mike Bickford. The resort has 111 rooms and suites and boasts many clients who return time and again to enjoy the spa and those decadent 104-degree pools. We found it to be a perfect location for enjoying all of the attractions of the valley as well as Joshua Tree National Park (to be detailed in an upcoming issue of Vittles).
Miracle Springs Resort’s Executive Chef Nigel Gainor who hails from Canada and who trained with some of that nation's top chefs including a few years in British Columbia, really caught our attention. He understands the proper selection and preparation of seafood, but considers fresh vegetables to be his specialty. He reigns over Chuckwallas Restaurant, which overlooks the gardens and pools, as well as two other dining rooms. The property also features a full-service bar and lounge. On one evening, we enjoyed his Barbecued Wild Salmon prepared in a Native-American style; and on another, his innovative Pasta with Asparagus, Chinese Pea Pods and Black Olives.
Miracle Springs Resort represents real value in the pricing of its rooms, spa treatments, restaurants and lounge. A true barometer of the resort’s success is the large percentage of guests who return on a regular schedule; and the fact that they seem a bit possessive about it as their own "discovery."
Miracle Springs Resort & Spa
10625 Palm Drive
Desert Hot Springs, CA 92240
Tel: 1-800-400-4414 or 760-251-6000
www.miraclesprings.com
©2008 by Authors/Owners Joe Hilbers, All rights reserved |
