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The Insider's Guide to Travel, Food and Wine
The official travel magazine of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association, Global Writes provides an ever-expanding library of illustrated trip reviews by professional travel journalists with advice on the best vacation ideas and itineraries, plus tips and recommendations on global destinations, hotels, B & B's, cruises, restaurants, food, wine and more. To plan your next adventure -- or just dream about one -- become an insider through the travel experiences of IFWTWA members worldwide.
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Island Nations
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IFWTWA Goup shot on Grand Turk, TCI
Hammock looking out to beach at Bohio Dive Resort
Walkway to the ocean from Bohio Dive Resort
Conch life cycle display in Conch World
Three of our group braving the waves
Group presentation on Grand Turk and TCI history
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Turks and Caicos Islands
Transformation by Cruises and Conchs through Innovation
Story by Norman E. Hill
Photos by Maralyn D. Hill
Historical Overview
A common shortened name for Turks and Caicos is TCI. I think the above title, with the key word “innovation”, is equally appropriate.
Directional sign showing distance globally
In the Atlantic Islands' scheme of things, TCI is not nearly as well known as other destinations. The islands are similar to Bahamas in terms of lacking fertile soil (unlike Cuba, Jamaica and Puerto Rico). As for location, they are not in the Caribbean at all, but rather the Atlantic Ocean. Up until recently, they had nothing that would be considered as a deep port natural harbor.
Some have argued that Christopher Columbus actually made his first 1492 landing on Grand Turk, rather than San Salvador. This point is quite controversial. However, in either location, he surely would have encountered the peaceful Arawak Indians. They had fled to the less lush islands, such as Grand Turk and Bahamas, to escape their fierce cousins, the Caribe Indians. As in other locations, they fell prey to European illnesses and infections, besides being enslaved. These Arawak tribes, without a written language of their own, vanished by the early 1500s.
Even historically, TCI seemed to get the short end of the proverbial stick. The Caicos Islands were mostly uninhabited until British Loyalists, banished from the newly independent USA after 1783, and other English citizens were granted plantation acreage here. Cotton plantations, made possible by black slave labor, were started, possibly to emulate the successful ones in the southern USA. The soil of the Caicos lasted about 30 years under the rigors of cotton planting and was then worn out. Instead of trying other crops or other agricultural techniques, plantation owners simply gave up, moved back to Britain or other West Indian islands, and abandoned their plantation homes.
A few apparently shipped their slaves to new plantation sites. But most simply left the black people, emancipated by default, to fend for themselves and raise food on the tarnished soil. This group of people represents the core of the current citizens of TCI.
As for the associated Turk Islands, primarily Grand Turk, for around 300 years, they were a prime source of salt. From the 1600s to the 1900s, salt, prized as a preservative, was taken from the islands. People from another British possession, Bermuda, known as salt rakers were active in overseeing this industry. Eventually, other sources of salt and new processes proved more economical to mine and the industry lost its world edge.
Current History
TCI is a British colony which, until recently, was largely self-administered.
For a number of years in the later twentieth century, TCI gained a reputation as an offshore banking center for the USA. The capital city, Providenciales in the Caicos, became the home of many banks and related institutions.
At the same time, drug smuggling gained a foothold in TCI. Many small airplanes, traveling north from Colombia, stopped in the islands to refuel before continuing onward towards Miami and Florida. Some of the banks served as money laundering operations for drug money.
Even without many of the lush scenic or other advantages of islands like Jamaica or St. Thomas, tourism was promoted in TCI. Some progress was made. However, in 2008, Hurricane Ike ravaged all the TCI islands and did damage to the fundamental infrastructure, especially on Grand Turk. The citizenry tried to revive functions related to the tourist trade as soon as possible.
Due to the drug problem and other reasons, Britain became greatly concerned about corruption in the TCI government. Finally, in 2009, it deposed the government and imposed direct rule. This shift is considered temporary and a return to the original structure is hoped for.
Revival Steps
Carnival Lines built a gigantic new cruise docking center. This made it much more feasible for new mammoth ships to visit Grand Turk, TCI. The islands also took steps to make sure that roads and hotels could accommodate the expanded influx of tourists. This partnership between cruise lines and the local government was designed to protect and enhance the interests of TCI citizens.
As described below, the conch, a form of mollusc, has become increasingly associated with TCI. It has a host of uses to appeal to a wide variety of people. A unique conch farm, Conch World, has been formed that actually harvests conchs in captivity by using “queen conchs” to lay eggs and then carefully caring for the egg offspring.
The Conch Critter
The true conch is a mollusc in the family known as “Strombidae.” Other varieties are sometimes referred as “conchs,” but there is only one true variety.
The conch has so many uses that the animal may be considered akin to the multi-faceted “schmoo” in the comic strip Li'l Abner. It serves as a variety of foods, as musical instruments, pearls, decorations, souvenirs, and even building materials. Here's a brief list of its incredible variety of usage:
Food—The conch can serve as a food source similar to escargot. It may be a part of salads or cooked soup as in chowder (conch chowder), gumbos or burgers. Some diners prefer it raw.
Musical instruments—Conch shells can be used as a form of wind instruments, even to announce when fish are available for sale.
Pearls—The female or Queen Conch produces pearls, with a wide range of colors available.
Decorations—These forms include planters, cameos, or even paint and ink holders.
Souvenirs or jewelry—These are often marketed to tourists.
Building material—Conch shells sometimes replace bricks or serve as bases for landfills.
Grand Turk Lighthouse that has many pirate tales attached
Home security—broken up conch shells, when imbedded into outdoor walls, are similar to barbed wire as a deterrent to intruders.
Other Grand Turk Sites
The architecture on Grand Turk is similar to that found in Bermuda and the Bahamas. Some historical buildings go back to the 17th century, although many portions have required restoration to represent the original form.
Some plantation houses fall into this category. Also, ruins of the old plantation houses are still recognizable.
Several museums are worth mentioning. In addition to the conch farm mentioned above, there is an associated conch museum that shows the historical development of interest in this mollusc.
An historical museum of TCI describes various phases of its unique history.
The famous Grand Turk lighthouse has a checkered history. In the 1700s, a group of pirates had taken over the lighthouse. At key times, they would turn off the lights, so that nearby ships would mistakenly run aground. The pirates would then attack the weakened ships and seize cargo. The current working lighthouse was constructed in 1842.
One famous female pirate, Ann Bonney, was prominent among these ruthless desperados. She escaped the hangman's noose due to pregnancy. Upon her release from captivity, she escaped and was never heard from again.
Summary
TCI and Grand Turk specifically have survived many setbacks. However, through innovations and new approaches, they represent a fascinating tour attraction. Grand Turk serves as an ideal location for cruise stops, diving and snorkeling aficionados, and a broad array of tourists. Providenciales is the main destination for air connections and offers luxury accommodations as well as diving and snorkeling.
My January, 2010 visit to TCI was part of an International Food Wine & Travel Writers Association (IFWTWA) Conference at Sea aboard Holland America's ms Eurodam. In addition to hosted touring of Grand Turk and museums, our program included a delicious lunch of tender conch, provided in numerous recipes prepared to perfection at beachfront Bohio Dive Resort.
Selection of some of the conch and fish dishes served at Bohio Dive Resort
Turks & Caicos National Museum: www.tcmuseum.org
Turks & Caicos Tourism: turksandcaicostourism.com
Bohio Dive Resort: http://bohiodiveresort.com
Holland America Line: hollandamerica.com
International Food Wine & Travel Writers Association: www.IFWTWA.org
© Story by Norman E. Hill, 2010
Photos by Maralyn D. Hill, 2010
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Island Nations
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