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The Insider’s Guide to Travel, Food and Wine
Two for the Washington Peninsula
Most people think of southern Washington beaches as a place for a family vacation. Lots of commotion and smiles of course, but what if there are only two of you and you wish for something more relaxing? Empty nesters, couples, friends, family members, take heart. “Two” can have a wonderful beach adventure if you keep few things in mind when planning.
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Hotels & Resorts
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Two for the Washington Peninsula
Story by Michelle Winner
Most people think of southern Washington beaches as a place for a family vacation. Lots of commotion and smiles of course, but what if there are only two of you and you wish for something more relaxing? Empty nesters, couples, friends, family members, take heart. “Two” can have a wonderful beach adventure if you keep a few things in mind when planning.
Stay in a Place that Favors Adults and is Away from the Raucous Beach Scene
One such accommodation is set on the rise above the compact fishing village of Ilwaco. The Inn at Harbour Village is only a few miles from the sandy stretch of Long Beach--and yet is a world away in charm and appointments. Innkeepers Peter and Janis Bale make certain you are comfortable at this shingled Cape Cod style bed and breakfast inn. Each well-decorated room is private with private bath. A remodeled 1928 Presbyterian Church, the inn still has a chapel and reception area. And here's one for your over- the- top file: why not ask if you can be married here or have a private vow renewal ceremony?
Breakfast at the Inn - Photo by Kurt Winner
Stay During the Week or in the Shoulder Season
Granted that in summer, even during the week, the beach towns are flush with tourists. But the crowds still aren't as bad as they are from Friday to Sunday . Some accommodations do post lower rates during the week, Monday to Thursday nights. And staying during shoulder season (Spring and Autumn) can't guarantee sunny weather--but will guarantee that it is wallet-friendly..
Enjoy a Grown-Up Event
The Port of Ilwaco features Art Walk every second Thursday from 5PM to 8PM each month. You can walk down from the inn or from some of the other unique places to stay, down to the 800- slip port. Wander the row of art galleries, wine bars and restaurants, visit with the artists and enjoy a glass of wine and the music at The Raven and Finch wine bar. Locals and tourist alike favor this relaxed evening harbor side.
Picnic en plein air
Pack a picnic to eat at the beach, or harbor side. You can find supplies at one of the markets along Pacific Hwy or opt for a crab cocktail at OleBob's (oly-bobs) Seafood Market. Sue and Jenny Hagerup or one of their staff will bang and shake out all of that scrumptious sweet Dungeness crab for you and slather it with their cocktail sauce. Ask for lemon wedges and a fork and proceed to the picnic table on port frontage and dive in. You can order ahead and they will pack your cocktail on ice for you. Bring your cooler on this trip . You are going to want to take some sturgeon, oysters, Albacore, salmon or crab home with you.
Enjoy a picnic of fresh crab at the Ilwaco harbor
Make Reservations
There are many inspired menus with the freshest seafood available on the peninsula, Willapa Bay and the Columbia River. The Shelburne Inn, Pelicano Restaurant, The Depot and 42nd Street Café are a few favorites.
Oysters pan fried - Photo by Kurt Winner
But if you were President Clinton, a fan of the legendary and long since closed “ Ark” restaurant, you would make reservations at Jimella's Fish Market & Café . Chefs Jimella Lucas and Nanci Main are back in a big way with their small cafe. Jimella's oysters are incomparable. Plump succulent orbs, pulled right from the nearby Willapa Bay, are pan-fried, served with a simple tartar sauce to dance on your tongue. If you are lucky, Sturgeon Szechuan will be offered. As all of the “Ark's” fans would tell you, this entrée, deglazed with sake and finished with a sublime sherry teriyaki sauce is not to be missed. It's bliss when paired with a bottle from their thoughtful Washington and Oregon wine selection. Pastry chef and hostess extraordinaire Nanci makes enticing desserts that will end your evening on a sweet note.
Avoid Kitsch and take Home a Beautiful Memento
Ok, Jake the Alligator Man at Marsh's Free Museum on the Long Beach main drag does attract the curious to spend on beach souvenirs. But if you'd like to bring home well-priced jewelry, a painting, photography or blown glass, the galleries in the Port of Ilwaco or Campiche Studios in Long Beach are a good bet. Professional photographer Nancy Campiche has assembled a collection of fine wares at all price points. The Chinook Observer offers some inexpensive limited edition prints of local sights by local artists.
Visit a Ghost Town
Oysterville is an 80-acre National Historic District on beautiful Willapa Bay. Structures along the tree shaded street are19th century: eight houses, a church and the Oysterville Cannery are on the National Register of Historic Places. Although considered a ghost town, people live here; they have the oldest continuously operating post office in Washington. Stop in at Oysterville Sea Farms and purchase fresh fish, oysters, cranberry catsup and baked goods.
Enjoy the beach from the back of a horse - Photo by Kurt Winner
Ride the Wild Surf
Well actually next to it. Back Country Wilderness Outfitters' Haug family run a great company that offers wagon, carriage and horseback rides and a dinner horseback ride called the Ribeye Ride. The scenery is breathtaking, and if you love horses this is the outfit to ride with.
Get into Nature
The area has many opportunities to get out and experience the mild, cool summers here. Leadbetter Point State Park at the northern tip of the Peninsula has several hiking trails that either lead to the Pacific Ocean or along Willapa Bay. You may see Trumpeter swans, black bear and Peregrine falcons.
There aren't any canoes, surfboards or bikinis at this Waikiki Beach! - Photo by Kurt Winner
Bald Eagles are often spotted on Willapa Bay. Heron, cormorants, kingfishers, Caspian tern and pelicans prefer the Columbia River Estuary east of Ilwaco. Cape Disappointment State Park is off U.S. Route 101. You can camp, surf fish, fly a kite, bird watch, climb up into a light house, sleep in a lighthouse keeper's quarters, and hike and bike the six trails of varying lengths. In summer there is a continuing series of concerts at the park's own “Waikiki Beach.”
Breathtaking views out to sea are your reward for walking out to the lighthouse at North Head - Photo by Kurt Winner
Get to the Point
The new, sparkling Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center in the park has excellent displays. But aside from the cliff, it is the views of the mighty Columbia River as it joins the Pacific Ocean that are the spectacular draw. It's one of those expansive views out to the ocean, views that leave you in silence, marveling at the sea birds returning to nests on the rocks below. And perhaps at that moment you want nothing more than to hold your companion's hand.
If a visit to the Washington Peninsula isn't possible, you can still enjoy a recipe from Chefs Nanci Main and Jimella Lucas's “The Best of the Ark” cookbook. (Shared with permission.)
Oysters Rockefeller á la Ark
Blanch 5c fresh spinach (tightly packed). Chop in food processor. Sauté 1 t minced garlic, 1 t minced shallots in 1/4 c clarified butter. Add 1/4 c chopped mushrooms, then spinach. Squeeze 1/2 lemon over mixture. Sprinkle 1/2 t flour into liquid. Deglaze with 2 T anisette. Add 2 T heavy cream. Cook until sauce comes together.
Place 24 oysters in half shells. Top with 1 to 2 T spinach mixture. Sprinkle with 1/2 t Parmesan cheese.
Bake for 4 to 5 minutes at 425 degrees.
Serves 6.
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Travel Info
The Inn at Harbor Village, 120 Williams St., 360-642-0087, innatharbourvillage.com
The Port of Ilwaco, ilwacowashington.com
The Shelburne Inn, shelburneinn.com
Pelicano Restaurant, pelicanorestaurant.com
The Depot, depotrestaurantdining.com
42nd Street Café, 42ndstcafe.com
Jimella's Fish Market & Café, 21712 Pacific Way, 360-665-4847
Marsh's Free Museum, 409 S. Pacific Avenue, Long Beach
Campiche Studios, campichestudios.net
The Chinook Observer, 205 Bolstad Ave. East STE# 2, Long Beach, chinookobserver.com
Willapa Bay, willabay.com
Back Country Wilderness Outfitters, 409 Sid Snyder Drive, Long Beach, 360-642-2576 (reservations recommended).
Cape Disappointment State Park, funbeach.com/attractions/cape-D.html
© Story by Michelle Winner, 2010
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