The Insider's Guide to Travel, Food and Wine
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Introduction: Colleen Shaughnessy-Larsson takes a day trip to Auvers-sur-Oise and shares her ideas on things to do and her moment in this village that is classified as part of a French park. Often, however, getting to a place becomes a challenge. Come along with Colleen who will help you meet that challenge with directions between Paris and Auvers-sur-Oise.
Auvers-sur-Oise is an eternal French village. It will also be forever known because of the painter, Vincent Van Gogh. Auvers-sur-Oise (Auvers on the river Oise) lies within a provincial area once known as Vexin français. The town is better known as the final resting place of Vincent Van Gogh and a favorite village for other painters of the 1800s.
In the last 70 days of his life Van Gogh painted 70 paintings in and around Auvers-sur-Oise. He lived here to be near his brother Theo, who lived in Paris. By direct train, the voyage takes less than 35 minutes. Consider it as a day trip to the country side. Auvers-sur-Oise is eternal because it lies within the Parc naturel régional du Vexin français (Use Google translate) since 1995. According to the charter of the 46 natural parks, the village cannot be altered and will not grow beyond its limits.
The photos you take today will look the same in the future. That thought is represented in the reproductions of various paintings along a walking tour of buildings that have not changed noticeably since the 1800s.
Films to see
My initial knowledge of Auvers-sur-Oise and the imprint of Vincent Van Gogh on the village and its future had its limits. Films with different themes are a quick way to learn. Three places provide background on the area and its history: The Office of Tourism, (make this your first stop before starting your walk), The Chateau d'Auvers, and the Auberge Ravoux/Maison de Van Gogh.
Tours - guided, on your own - walking or by bike
An active way to learn about the history is the guided tour or a bike tour. Anne Claire Saintier-Bekkers was the great guide for my visit. We stopped along the route of the painters and she gave anecdotes about each painting, the scene and information on Van Gogh's life at the time.
Her tour is “Sur les pas de Van Gogh” (In the steps of Van Gogh). Between the first Sunday in April and the last of October, the French tour meets at the Office of Tourism at 3 p.m. and costs 5.50 euros per person. The tour lasts one to one-and-a-half hours. Everyone is welcome to follow along. (For tours in other languages, contact the tourist office. They have a set price for 1 to 30 people.)
If you do not want to be part of an English-speaking tour, you have the information online. Walks and maps are laid out for you on the village website. Look under the heading “Promenade dans Auvers" (Walk through Auvers). (Use Google Translate.)
Auvers step-by-step (Chaponval et le Valhermeil)
The painter's houses (Maisons de peintres) and the walk from the tourist office to the cemetery where Van Gogh and his brother, Theo, are buried and to the Church (Promenade autour de l'église et du cimetière).
Another opportunity for a guided tour: renting an electric bike at the tourist office. Check with the Tourist officeabout both the electric and regular bikes. Currently, the rental rate is five euros an hour. Call for reservations (01 34 48 08 54) and more information before you arrive in Auvers-sur-Oise.
You will definitely enjoy your time on the bike since the area is very hilly. If you want to save your energy for sightseeing and walking and save time getting from point A to point B, consider the electric bike. Use the bike to visit some of the 162,270 acres of the Vexin français park.
This rental service is new and is gradually being updated. They propose making helmets and locks, a basket, saddlebags, child's seat, child's wagon to pull with the bike and special gear for the handicapped available.
A couple of things to do and see
The Auberge Ravoux shows a well-done 12-minute film using postcards that show Van Gogh's paintings of surrounding areas and how little the village has changed. Excerpts from letters to Theo and Wilhelmine van Gogh and Paul Gauguin are the commentary to the film in French, English and Japanese.
At the Auberge Ravoux, you visit two rooms upstairs. The one is partially furnished, the other is Van Gogh's room number 5; it contains only a chair. Van Gogh never painted in this room and it was never rented out again. He lived and died at the Auberge Ravoux between May 20, 1890, and July 29, 1890. Preserved for a century, the room was classified as an historic monument in 1985.
In the Maison-Atelier de Daubigny, the panels contain painted fairy tales in Daubigny's daughter's room; one of the original framed paintings is of his wife sewing; Daubigny's son Karl, C. Corot, H. Daumier, and Oudinot scenery paintings cover the walls.
Daubigny is known for being the first artist to live in Auvers. He painted many scenes from a boat. The models of the two boats, “Botin”, the first one; and “Bottin”, the second are on display. The sails on the second are sewn with fabric from one of the parachutes that landed in Sainte-Mere-Église, the first French village liberated on June 6, 1944.
Walking on the narrow roads, you can hear accordion music playing; the bird song blends with the scent of the flowers. Walking into the church, a woman is playing her guitar in one of the wood chairs and humming and then practicing her singing.
These beautiful sounds are broken by the sound of the airplanes overhead. Why? Every Sunday the charter flights are coming and going at the same time.
Then as suddenly as it began, the noise disappears and tranquility is back.
It is hard to do everything in one day. Everything is a “must do” so plan to return.
Museum passes: ask at tourist office: Pass'4 unite, Pass'5 unite, Pass'8 unité.
The current passes are valid until December 31, 2012. Anyone can use your pass; for the concert festivals (e.g., jazz festival), buy one ticket, get one free using the pass.
A cruise down the River Oise starting in Auvers-sur-Oise departs at 3:30 p.m. and returns at 5 p.m. The commentary is in English and you are advised to reserve. Call the tourist office at 01 30 36 10 06.
Journées du Patrimoine/Heritage Days in September
The guided tour “In the footsteps of Van Gogh” will be available in English at a special price of one euro. Reserve with the tourist office at 01 30 36 10 06.
Two guided tours in EnglishNature walk
A two-and-a-half hour to three-hour “Nature Walk in Auvers-sur-Oise” will cost 8 euros. Special walks in English and French are available April 10, May 1, August 28 and October 2 at 3 p.m. Reservations are necessary. Call Amandine at 06 10 89 15 90.
Travel between Paris and Auvers-sur-Oise
The train leaves Paris from platform 34 at 9:56 a.m. and departs Auvers at 6:18 p.m.
This special direct train (weekends-Saturday/Sunday- and holidays) takes between 32 and 35 minutes. The regular trains require a change and take about one to one and a half hours.
The direct train operates between the first Sunday in April until the last Sunday in October. Call the tourist office (+33 1 34 48 08 54) or visit Transilien/SNCF for your dates.
Special, direct train leaves from Gare du Nord (Paris Nord) Saturday, Sunday and holidays
All information about Auvers-sur-Oise is near your train platform - not at the tourist office window
Green ticket machine requires a credit card with a smart chip or cash
Or buy your ticket at the window
The wood walkway on your right leads to a toilet on the street level
The platform is located on the other side of the turnstiles toward the back of the station
Once through the turnstiles, the information kiosk helps with train questions
The platform (voie) is posted at last minute - usually 34 or 35
All train announcements are in French
The Paris train leaves Auvers-sur-Oise at 6:18 p.m., platform (voie) 2. Take the stairs down and under the tracks.
Other practical information once in Auvers-sur-Oise
Exit station (SNCF personnel can direct you, if their ticket office is open)
Bank and grocery (closes 1:45 p.m. on Sunday) are next to station
Highly recommended for eating on the go! Boulangerie - sandwich menu with dessert and drink=5.60 euros (beverage is beer, water or sodas), located across from the park - Cécile and Franck Vanhauwe (open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. and on Sunday 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., closed Wednesday)
Toilettes - Van Gogh park behind market in the back corner; Tourist office; and the Auberge Ravoux
Video at tourist office: one euro adult .50 children 12 minutes French or English, with a good introduction
